What to Take to India

Contributions from Dora DeCoursey, Roger and Char Edwards, and David Thornburgh

Dora offer India travel advice
Dora offers some travel advice
at an India Travel Panel meeting

DISCLAIMER: This probably isn't complete, it may be too much and in any case KCC can't accept responsibility for what you take or don't take and what happens to you because of it, OK? But in order to give you a starting place for thinking about it, here is roughly what some experienced travelers do and think is reasonable, plus a few things from travel guides and talking to other people.

General Information and Advice

The annual Mahamudra retreats are now held at Bokar Monastery in Mirik, India. They were previously held in Salugara, outside of Siliguri, about 45 minutes from the Bagdogra Airport. The previous Kalu Rinpoche built a beautiful stupa in Salugara, which is part of the current Kalu Rinpoche's monastery, about a 15 minute walk from the Cindrella Hotel. You may want to visit it if your plans call for an overnight stay in Siliguri.

Mirik is over 5,000 feet in altitude, so take it easy for a few days after you arrive.

When in India, make a special effort to pay attention. There are many, sometimes disconcerting differences, such as driving on the left, broken up sidewalks to stumble on, etc. Be careful.

English is spoken quite prevalently, especially where shopping or tourist services are involved.

General Packing Advice

David explains packing and useful drugs to take to India
David offer tips on drugs to take in case of
illness and packing tips

While you want to have the right things to take and dress appropriately, you may want to leave very fine clothes at home. Things get dirty, abused in washing and occasionally stolen. Put more thought than money into what you decide to take.

Consult guidebooks and the advice of experienced travelers. Make a list and start gathering things early. Do some trial packing to see how things fit and whether you can carry your luggage.

Strive to pack as light as you can, but still to be prepared. You can almost always get porters, hotel people, etc. to carry your bags (sometimes it's impossible to avoid help), but there may be occasions when you want to be able to carry your things yourself. It's important to have that ability.

Most things are available in India, but they may be of inferior quality from our perspective. Shopping during the retreat will not be very convenient, but the bazaar in Mirik is about a mile walk or taxi ride from most of the hotels where we stay. Mirik is a small village and does not afford a lot of shopping opportunities. But it can be fun, so don't avoid it.

Enclose any wet things (shampoo, toothpaste, etc.) in zip lock bags. Also use these bags for things containing liquid that may leak when air pressure changes due to plane travel or a taxi ride from sea level to 5,000 feet (Bagdogra to Mirik). Planes are pressurized in both the passenger and cargo compartments, but it's a lot higher than where you packed your bags.

Luggage

If using a backpack, internal frame is best. It's less likely to get banged up or caught on things. A nylon cover helps protect it from dirty bus-tops/trunks and surreptitious access. Soft luggage with back-pack-like straps that can zip away is popular. Regular luggage is also fine, especially if you're not traveling much besides the seminar. Small padlocks to lock your luggage are recommended. Check security regulations before locking checked baggage. Wheels are very convenient, but get larger wheels rather than smaller, and make sure they are sturdy.

Determine size and weight restrictions for each airline in your itinerary. Ask your travel agent. Ticket jackets usually tell what they are for the airlines you are using. Small, local flights often are more restrictive than the overseas ones. Carry on restrictions can vary widely and change unexpectedly due to security concerns. It may be wise to plan for the need to pack your carry on items in your regular checked baggage on a moment's notice.

Cameras and lap tops require padding and will lengthen your time at security check points.

You may want to bring an extra duffel bag or the like for bringing non-breakable things home. You can buy inexpensive bags in India. You might also consider leaving some things there that people can use.

Shipping stuff back is not a do-it-yourself project. Find someone to properly package your things. Depends upon the post office or shipping point you use as to how much wait and hassle you will have. Sea mail is slow, but people have used it successfully. Air shipping is expensive, but fast.

NEVER LEAVE YOUR LUGGAGE UNATTENDED except in a locked hotel room.

Sleeping Gear

Sleeping Bag

A blanket or more will be provided at most hotels, so you can do without a sleeping bag except for higher areas (Mirik, Kathmandu, Darjeeling, Sonada) where the blankets just aren't warm enough and very inexpensive hotels, where they may be absent or dirty. Then a sleeping bag is necessary.

Sheets

More expensive places, like the Cindrella in Siliguri, give two sheets; but many hotels provide only one (and very inexpensive places may have ones you'll choose not to use). One thin double sheet that can fold in half is very useful.

Mosquito Netting

Many of us feel better sleeping under one of these. Many hotel room windows don't have screens, and bugs seem to get in anyway. Mosquitoes carrying malaria are the main concern. The risk depends on the weather, proximity to a body of water, and other factors. Many people do not use a net. The hanging type, attached to the ceiling can be purchased in India, but may be very hard to find. Convenient pop-up types can be obtained before you travel. You can bring your own nylon screening for windows. There is an infamous malaria area between Siliguri and Kalimpong if you plan to stay in this area.

Sitting Gear

Very convenient is the inflatable zafu, available at KCC, Facing East or on mail order from Oregon Zen Community or Carolina Morning Designs at www.zafu.net. It's just a beach ball in a zafu cover, so you could just buy a beach ball. Some people prefer them even when not traveling (they distribute pressure more evenly), but others don't like them. Give one a thorough try before you go, so you know if it works for you.

You could also carry a regular cushion (zafu) or buy one at the monastery store in Mirik. They are stuffed with cotton when available).

There will be thin mattresses on the marble or concrete floors for the events at Bokar Monastery, but in some places we can be talking cold, hard cement, so something to put under you if you are travelling beyond the seminar may be a good idea. Half of an old insulite camping pad is light and cleanable. A Thermarest is great, especially if you plan to do prostrations in your practice.

Texts and Books

Check the seminar or event notices. You'll definitely want Mahamudra Prayers, the Bokar Rinpoche Prayers Book and a Chenrezig text. You can get away without having a Ngondro text if you are planning to take a break from it or have it memorized. Just taking the relevant pages is an option. If this will be your main chance to learn Ngondro, you should bring the text. A Milarepa tsok may occur at the end of a retreat, so you might wish to bring that text, but it's not required. Texts are available for purchase at KCC.

Be realistic about how many books you'll read. Maybe take one book and trade books with others. The longer you travel, the heavier they get

Clothes

Take as few as possible. Comfortable, casual, modest (no shorts for women-- best are below-the-knee skirts or loose trousers). You can get clothes there if you wish (ready-made or tailored). Tailored clothes take longer, often much longer than estimated by the tailor.

It will likely be hot in the afternoons and cool in the evenings and mornings in places like Kolkatta and Salugara. It probably won't rain very much except during the monsoon season (late May through early Fall). Up higher, in Mirik and Darjeeling, it will be cold at night, and possibly cold and damp (if it's foggy) in the day. So layers are a good idea, and a down vest or jacket is handy.

You can get clothes laundered cheaply and easily from most hotels. Know that laundry involves beating your clothes and ironing them. If you plan to wash some things on your own, you may wish to have a piece of nylon cord for hanging, few clothespins, and some soap.

Walking shoes, sandals (one pair each should do). Sandals could be "teva" type, so you can wear them in the shower, or take a pair of thongs for that. Something easy to slip on and off is convenient during the teachings and for your hotel.

Water Filter

You can buy bottled water in India, but it is more environmentally friendly and more reliable to filter your own water. You may need 2 water bottles to filter to and from. Water filters can be shared by several people. The monastery provides cool, boiled water in the dining hall and bottled water at some meals, so you could rely on these if you wish. Cutting the top off an Indian water bottle to filter from using your own water bottle to filter to is a useful trick.

A knowledgeable clerk at REI in Portland said that people need to carefully select better water filtration systems designed to remove chemicals.

His first choice was the "First Need Deluxe" pump purifier, which was sold in large quantities to the US military for missions in other countries. Independent test results indicate it removes almost all chemicals, bacteria, virus and protozoa. No process is 100% effective, but this one is as good as it gets. This process does not leave a chemical flavor. It cost $93 in 2006.

He said that the second best would be the ceramic carbon filter pump filter called "MSR Waterworks EX" that costs $139.95 (2006 price), which is effective in removing bacteria, protozoa and chemicals. It is not effective against viruses. It has two filters and reduces the chance that something will get through if one filter is not functioning at the highest level.

He said that the distant third-best choice is a pump filter called "MSR Sweetwater Micro filter" which costs $59.95 and is effective in removing bacteria, protozoa and chemicals, but not viruses.

People can read more about these on the REI web site (rei.com), order them on the site or buy them at an REI store. They are probably widely available at other stores. He did not recommend others for India.

Drugs and Medical Supplies

Seek advice from a travel clinic and your own doctors or other health providers. Among other things, they may recommend taking a course of ciprofloxacin in case of traveler's diarrhea. Many good guide books like Lonely Planet contain good advice and information for the areas in which you plan to travel. Cipro is expensive, so you may wish to buddy up on taking this along. It can also be purchased there, but not in the middle of the night when you might need it most, and quality may be an issue. There is a pharmacy next to the Hotel Ratnagiri in Mirik. Prescriptions are not neccessary in India. You will need to know what dosage to take and the course of treatment.

Often, the retreatants include US medical personnel, who will help you determine what to take in an emergency.

There are of course various alternative medical things one can try for prevention or treatment of diarrhea: homeopathic, Chinese, Ayurvedic, Tibetan, etc. Please seek out the ones you wish before the trip. It's good to have an idea of what your strategy will be for this likely event and travel prepared.

You may also want your favorite cold medicine, cough drops (Indian cough drops are quite different), something for lung ailments (if you are sensitive), and Tylenol/aspirin/ibuprofen type things. Don't take a lot of these, just what you need to cover your chronic conditions so you have something until you can get to a pharmacy.

Good to take some packaged antiseptic towlettes and bandages for cleaning and dressing small wounds.

Take any vitamins or supplements you will need. Some people take acidophilus.

Gifts

Ngodrup sometimes requests us to bring specific gifts such as multi-vitamins for some of the older people. Such requests are different every year. You might wish to take some small things to use as gifts to someone you meet. Gift ideas include lama or diety pictures (obviously only relevant for certain situations), Swiss army knife, toys for young tulkus, nice pens, or flashlights. You can buy candy or fruit there and for kids, if that seems appropriate to you. Warning - they may multiply and become your constant companions.

Money

Except for what you need that day, keep it in a money belt, with you at all times, along with your passport, credit card, air tickets, and any other valuables you can't afford to lose. Avoid taking extra credit cards, calling cards, and keys. Leave them at home.

US Dollars

If there is a retreat fee it is usually payable in US dollars (cash). Any fees will be announced with registration information. Expensive hotels may take credit cards (but charge a fee). Some hotels may take US currency, but you should plan on paying in rupees, NOT US travelers checks. For other expenses you might consider taking roughly half cash and half travelers checks. American Express travelers checks are definitely accepted; others may not be. Keep the travelers checks receipts separate from the checks (in case you lose the checks). Take cash in 100's mainly, a few 50's, 20's, a little even smaller. You may want to change something small at the end of your trip, for instance, and every once in a while you may pay for something in dollars (at an airport in transit, to a fellow retreatant, etc.) You can always give donations to Lamas or monasteries in dollars.

You have to go to a bank to change money, but not all banks do so. The bank in Mirik DOES NOT change money; one needs to make an all-day trip to Darjeeling. This is a small ordeal compared to the US, so you will want to limit the number of times you need to do this.

There is now an ATM in Mirik, just outside the Jagjeet Hotel. It is convenient and it probably works with your bank's ATM card, but don't count on it because it may run out of money, particularly during large events.

Rupees

Change a good supply of money in the airport when you arrive in Calcutta or Delhi (like maybe $200 if you'll pay for your hotel by credit card or traveler's checks, and depending on what you plan on doing). This will vary with your travel style and length of stay. Plan this before you travel.

In Calcutta, the best is to go to the bank window (State Bank of India) INSIDE the airport arrival area just after you get your bags, and BEFORE you go out into the public part of the airport. There is something a little unnerving about stuffing a large amount of rupees, a few inches thick, into your money belt in full view of a lot of people you don't know. Even though you're spaced out and culture shock is beginning to dawn, it's nice to change money here because you'll need some right away for the taxi, and from now on it will be a fairly major production to change money (limited days and hours, long lines, not convenient to the seminar, etc.). Outside the arrival area people will swamp you with hotel and taxi offers, none of which you need because you will have hotel reservations and you will get your taxi by going to the prepaid taxi stand.

Get some of your rupees in 100's; some in 500's. 500's take up much less room and are good for more expensive things like hotels, long taxi rides, and very fancy meals. For less expensive things, it can be hard to get change. So get a good supply of small notes. You'll want to give something to the person who carries your bags to the taxi, the other terminal or at the hotel to the porter who takes your luggage to your room. These people will often not have change.

SAVE your receipts from changing money. You may be required to show them later, especially if you change a large amount of rupees back to US dollars in India when leaving.

Count your money, even though you may feel harried. Examine it carefully and don't accept money that is torn on the edges. People won't accept it when you pay for something. Don't worry about holes in the middle, though-- they staple the money into counted out packets and this doesn't seem to bother merchants.

Keep a supply of small bills handy. They are useful for rickshaws, tips, beggars, etc., and somehow there is a shortage of change.

Checklist

  • Money belt/neck pouch-- essential (with airline tickets, passport, money, rupees from your last trip, travelers checks, credit card, luggage key, any other valuables)
  • Backpack or luggage with locks and maybe a cover
  • Sleeping bag or down comforter (nice for Mirik, Darjeeling mainly)
  • Sheet
  • Mosquito net
  • Sitting gear (zafu and pad or bench)
  • Puja texts, mala
  • Light meditation shawl (for bugs protection and warmth; easy to get in India)
  • Reading book(s)
  • Notebook, pens
  • Map, guide books (tear out relevant sections)
  • Clothes
  • Bandana and/or scarf (for mask against dust/pollution and for a handkerchief)
  • Sun hat
  • Inexpensive watch (nice watches are thief attractions)
  • Leak proof water bottles
  • Water filter
  • Day pack and/or shoulder bag, waist pouch, etc.
  • One or two rolls of toilet paper. It's available everywhere, but not as soft and relatively expensive. Some hotels do not supply it, or charge for it.
  • Toiletries (don't bring more than you need. They are available there.
  • Tampons (available, but inferior)
  • Razor blades
  • Towel (as small and light weight as you tolerate; Some hotels supply them, but not washcloths.
  • Drugs, medical supplies [Cipro, advil/aspirin/pain relief, neosporin or topical anti-infection, imodium, antihistamine. It's possible to purchase a bottle with others and each take along a few.
  • Travel first aid basics -- see a guidebook
  • Copies of prescriptions from your doctor -- see a guidebook for suggestions.
  • Your regular vitamins if any.
  • Dental repair kit (inexpensive glue and pain killer for broken tooth, loose filling)
  • Sun screen
  • Insect repellent
  • Ear plugs (for sleeping; India tends to be very, very noisy)
  • Extra glasses or your prescription.
  • Sink plug (universal or flat, flexible rubber)
  • Sewing kit
  • A few feet of duct tape, small nails or thumb tacks, etc. (for repairs, to put up screen or mosquito nets, etc.)
  • A short string of safety pins and paper clips
  • A few zip lock bags
  • Swiss army knife
  • Padlock (for hotel rooms) with multiple keys (extremely convenient when you have a roommate]
  • Flashlight
  • Alarm clock
  • Camera, film, tape player if desired
  • Calculator (to figure exchange rate, etc.)
  • Photos of your family, of our retreat land, post cards of your country
  • Gifts, offering envelopes
  • Special snack food. You may want stomach recovery foods. Indian food can seem very spicy.
  • Power plug adapter kit. Also check to make sure that any electronics or appliances you take are rated for 220v AC.
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